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Top Terroir: Joe Campanale's Producer Picks

Top Terroir: Joe Campanale's Producer Picks


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On Top Terroir we ask a different wine expert who his or her favorite wine producers currently are. We can't promise they'll be in your local wine store, but we will tell you where to look for them online. In this installment, Joe Campanale, co-owner and beverage director of New York's dell'anima, L'Artusi, and Anfora shares his picks:

Producer: Arianna Occhipinti

Location: Sicily, Italy

Why? Arianna has been helping her uncle Giusto make wine for 10 years at his Sicilian winery, COS. Now 26, she recently started her own winery creating natural, elegant wine with the low alcohol, nuanced, earthy flavors and blazing acidity that is hard to imagine in Sicily. Like her uncle, she farms biodynamically, and keeps a significant portion of her land undeveloped because she believes it helps preserve the ecosystem of her vineyards. We have her wine on the list at Anfora, dell'anima, and L'Artsui.

Producer: Jean-Paul Brun

Location: Beaujolais, France

Why? The Domaine des Terres Dorées is located in Charnay, a village in southern Beaujolais just north of Lyons, in a beautiful area known as the "Region of Golden Stones." Jean-Paul Brun is the owner and winemaker at this 40-acre family estate. He seeks to make wine that is so unlike what is normal for most of Beaujolais, that in 2007 he was denied AOC status for most of his flagship wine Beaujolais "L'Ancien." In a region where the mediocrity of industrial production is the norm, Brun is such a staunch defender of the terroir of Beaujolais that the authorities didn't even recognize it. Brun's view is that Beaujolais is best when made naturally, by hand and with low alcohol levels. Rather than use the commercial yeast that most producers use (it gives Beaujolais a candied flavor reminiscent of bananas), he opts for only the naturally-occuring ambient yeast that is present on the skins of the grapes, equipment in the winery and air in the vineyards. These stunning wines are all mineral, flower and bright, vibrant berry fruit. We have some on the list at Anfora.

Producer: Cedric Bouchard

Location: Champagne, France

Why? Cedric Bouchard and several other growers are turning the Champagne world on its head by creating unique wines based on terroir. Bouchard is part of a small club of grower-Champagnes that produce wine from the estate from which the grapes are grown. Yet, even in this small, often elite group, Bouchard stands out for how original and naturally-produced his wines are. He started his winery in 2000 when he obtained 1.37 hectares from his family's land Celles-sur-Ource in the Côte des Bar region of Champagne. Several years later, he added a tiny 1.47 hectares which is under the Champagne Inflorescence label. His revolutionary philosophy is diametrically opposed to the large houses. Rather than buying grapes from growers all over the region, Bouchard carefully and naturally grows the grapes himself, using only ambient yeasts and dramatically reduced yields. His bottlings are only single vineyard wines. Instead of blending different grapes and vintages, he makes wines from single grapes, single vintages. All of Bouchard's wines have low or no dosage (they are very, very dry) and taste of soil and chalk. Unfortunately, these are made in such small quantities that there is never enough around, but we do have some on the list at Anfora and L'Artusi.


What We’re Into Right Now

Each month, we pull together a selection of drinking-related items that have, for one reason or another, grabbed the attention of PUNCH’s editors, who spend pretty much all day, every day surrounded by booze. Here’s what we’re into right now.

Amaro Caldo at Fausto | Chloe Frechette, Assistant Editor

At the newly opened Fausto in Park Slope, Joe Campanale’s beverage program is as exciting and thoughtfully executed as chef Erin Shambura’s menu. Unsurprisingly for a spot that bills itself as a “Brooklyn restaurant with an Italian soul,” amaro steals the show as the protagonist of a tasteful list of aperitivi and digestivi (including vintage expressions) as well as an enticing cocktail list. While the Amarcord—a mix of two types of bitters, Italian pastis, tonic and prosecco—is one of the best spritzes in recent memory, it was the amaro caldo that won me over on a recent visit. An amaro-based toddy, it’s a sure antidote to February blues.

Jacquesson Cuvée 740 Extra Brut Champagne | Jon Bonné, Senior Contributing Editor

Sometimes you need a reminder that the old way of doing Champagne—buying grapes from various places as a négociant, blending them together to show their best side—can have a moment amid the post-modernism of 2018. Although that doesn’t quite describe what brothers Jean-Hervé and Laurent Chiquet of Jacquesson do (they own much of their own land, as do some of the best large Champagne houses today), their numbered cuvée is a forward take on the old ways in Champagne. Blended from several parcels on both sides of the Marne, a mix of all three major Champagne grapes, each cuvée represents a different base year—the 740 corresponds to the generally awesome 2012 vintage. This is the technique (versus the terroir) of Champagne at its finest: dark plum and black walnut in one moment, chalkiness and lift the next. The Chiquets keep proving you don’t have to be a lone farmer, and you don’t have to be a multinational—that there’s a third path to beauty in Champagne.

Drink, Boston | Allison Hamlin, Social Media Editor

It’s no secret that Barbara Lynch’s empire is an undisputed pillar of Boston fine dining and drinking. From deftly coordinating bar reservations with their sister restaurant, Sportello, above, to an extremely qualified set of cocktail servers, the entire experience at Drink feels carefully calibrated, nimble and not at all pretentious. You would think that the bespoke cocktail trend would have run its course, but, under GM Ezra Star, somehow the thrill is still alive and well. At the risk of blowing up my own spot, I also have it on good authority that their low-key Japanese whisky collection is alone worth a trip (perhaps on someone else’s tab).

Japanese Wines | Bianca Prum, Managing Editor

I expected to drink my way around Japan in the form of whisky, gin, sake, highballs… but wine? Not on my radar until I spent an evening at Bunon, a natural wine bar-cum-izakaya where I encountered a domestic pét-nat whose only discernible details of origin were that it was “from the north.” Bone-dry and delicately floral, it was just what the tempura and fermented vegetables coming out of the kitchen demanded. Later, in the Yamanashi region, I asked for something local and was recommended another sparkler, this one from the oldest family-owned wine producer in the country and made from the traditional koshu grape. Again, it was dry and crisp, and the ideal companion to the heavier dishes of the meat-centric region. I flew home two days later still thinking of it—and lamenting that more of these tasty bottles aren’t available outside of Japan.

2015 Oriol Artigas La Rumbera | Megan Krigbaum, Contributing Editor

Perhaps it has something to do with recent political tumult in the region—or maybe the wines are just more attention-grabbing now—but there’s more and more chatter about wines from Catalonia these days. In particular, I am all about what’s coming out of Oriol Artigas’s little plot in Alella. This is what you want to drink in the winter: Its peach-blossomy fruit is fleshy and ripe, and its salinity is almost shocking, just in the way these cold snaps in the air have been.

Sphinx Cocktail at Karasu | Lizzie Munro, Senior Editor

There are a number of tempting drinks to be had at Karasu, the Japanese-style cocktail bar located behind Walter’s in Ft. Greene, Brooklyn—but, being a creature of habit, I zeroed in almost immediately on a strong and stirred gin number called the Sphinx, which is served chilled, in a rocks glass, with no ice. Essentially a reworked Gibson, it’s bolstered with umeshu, a liqueur made from still-green ume plums, rather than vodka, then brightened with akajiso vinegar, made from red shiso leaves. It’s both funkier and sweeter than the drink on which its based, but surprisingly delicate, too. Or at least it pretends to be standing in for the cocktail onion is a hefty umeboshi, a salty, pickled plum that makes just about every other Martini garnish feel lightweight by comparison.


What We’re Into Right Now

Each month, we pull together a selection of drinking-related items that have, for one reason or another, grabbed the attention of PUNCH’s editors, who spend pretty much all day, every day surrounded by booze. Here’s what we’re into right now.

Amaro Caldo at Fausto | Chloe Frechette, Assistant Editor

At the newly opened Fausto in Park Slope, Joe Campanale’s beverage program is as exciting and thoughtfully executed as chef Erin Shambura’s menu. Unsurprisingly for a spot that bills itself as a “Brooklyn restaurant with an Italian soul,” amaro steals the show as the protagonist of a tasteful list of aperitivi and digestivi (including vintage expressions) as well as an enticing cocktail list. While the Amarcord—a mix of two types of bitters, Italian pastis, tonic and prosecco—is one of the best spritzes in recent memory, it was the amaro caldo that won me over on a recent visit. An amaro-based toddy, it’s a sure antidote to February blues.

Jacquesson Cuvée 740 Extra Brut Champagne | Jon Bonné, Senior Contributing Editor

Sometimes you need a reminder that the old way of doing Champagne—buying grapes from various places as a négociant, blending them together to show their best side—can have a moment amid the post-modernism of 2018. Although that doesn’t quite describe what brothers Jean-Hervé and Laurent Chiquet of Jacquesson do (they own much of their own land, as do some of the best large Champagne houses today), their numbered cuvée is a forward take on the old ways in Champagne. Blended from several parcels on both sides of the Marne, a mix of all three major Champagne grapes, each cuvée represents a different base year—the 740 corresponds to the generally awesome 2012 vintage. This is the technique (versus the terroir) of Champagne at its finest: dark plum and black walnut in one moment, chalkiness and lift the next. The Chiquets keep proving you don’t have to be a lone farmer, and you don’t have to be a multinational—that there’s a third path to beauty in Champagne.

Drink, Boston | Allison Hamlin, Social Media Editor

It’s no secret that Barbara Lynch’s empire is an undisputed pillar of Boston fine dining and drinking. From deftly coordinating bar reservations with their sister restaurant, Sportello, above, to an extremely qualified set of cocktail servers, the entire experience at Drink feels carefully calibrated, nimble and not at all pretentious. You would think that the bespoke cocktail trend would have run its course, but, under GM Ezra Star, somehow the thrill is still alive and well. At the risk of blowing up my own spot, I also have it on good authority that their low-key Japanese whisky collection is alone worth a trip (perhaps on someone else’s tab).

Japanese Wines | Bianca Prum, Managing Editor

I expected to drink my way around Japan in the form of whisky, gin, sake, highballs… but wine? Not on my radar until I spent an evening at Bunon, a natural wine bar-cum-izakaya where I encountered a domestic pét-nat whose only discernible details of origin were that it was “from the north.” Bone-dry and delicately floral, it was just what the tempura and fermented vegetables coming out of the kitchen demanded. Later, in the Yamanashi region, I asked for something local and was recommended another sparkler, this one from the oldest family-owned wine producer in the country and made from the traditional koshu grape. Again, it was dry and crisp, and the ideal companion to the heavier dishes of the meat-centric region. I flew home two days later still thinking of it—and lamenting that more of these tasty bottles aren’t available outside of Japan.

2015 Oriol Artigas La Rumbera | Megan Krigbaum, Contributing Editor

Perhaps it has something to do with recent political tumult in the region—or maybe the wines are just more attention-grabbing now—but there’s more and more chatter about wines from Catalonia these days. In particular, I am all about what’s coming out of Oriol Artigas’s little plot in Alella. This is what you want to drink in the winter: Its peach-blossomy fruit is fleshy and ripe, and its salinity is almost shocking, just in the way these cold snaps in the air have been.

Sphinx Cocktail at Karasu | Lizzie Munro, Senior Editor

There are a number of tempting drinks to be had at Karasu, the Japanese-style cocktail bar located behind Walter’s in Ft. Greene, Brooklyn—but, being a creature of habit, I zeroed in almost immediately on a strong and stirred gin number called the Sphinx, which is served chilled, in a rocks glass, with no ice. Essentially a reworked Gibson, it’s bolstered with umeshu, a liqueur made from still-green ume plums, rather than vodka, then brightened with akajiso vinegar, made from red shiso leaves. It’s both funkier and sweeter than the drink on which its based, but surprisingly delicate, too. Or at least it pretends to be standing in for the cocktail onion is a hefty umeboshi, a salty, pickled plum that makes just about every other Martini garnish feel lightweight by comparison.


What We’re Into Right Now

Each month, we pull together a selection of drinking-related items that have, for one reason or another, grabbed the attention of PUNCH’s editors, who spend pretty much all day, every day surrounded by booze. Here’s what we’re into right now.

Amaro Caldo at Fausto | Chloe Frechette, Assistant Editor

At the newly opened Fausto in Park Slope, Joe Campanale’s beverage program is as exciting and thoughtfully executed as chef Erin Shambura’s menu. Unsurprisingly for a spot that bills itself as a “Brooklyn restaurant with an Italian soul,” amaro steals the show as the protagonist of a tasteful list of aperitivi and digestivi (including vintage expressions) as well as an enticing cocktail list. While the Amarcord—a mix of two types of bitters, Italian pastis, tonic and prosecco—is one of the best spritzes in recent memory, it was the amaro caldo that won me over on a recent visit. An amaro-based toddy, it’s a sure antidote to February blues.

Jacquesson Cuvée 740 Extra Brut Champagne | Jon Bonné, Senior Contributing Editor

Sometimes you need a reminder that the old way of doing Champagne—buying grapes from various places as a négociant, blending them together to show their best side—can have a moment amid the post-modernism of 2018. Although that doesn’t quite describe what brothers Jean-Hervé and Laurent Chiquet of Jacquesson do (they own much of their own land, as do some of the best large Champagne houses today), their numbered cuvée is a forward take on the old ways in Champagne. Blended from several parcels on both sides of the Marne, a mix of all three major Champagne grapes, each cuvée represents a different base year—the 740 corresponds to the generally awesome 2012 vintage. This is the technique (versus the terroir) of Champagne at its finest: dark plum and black walnut in one moment, chalkiness and lift the next. The Chiquets keep proving you don’t have to be a lone farmer, and you don’t have to be a multinational—that there’s a third path to beauty in Champagne.

Drink, Boston | Allison Hamlin, Social Media Editor

It’s no secret that Barbara Lynch’s empire is an undisputed pillar of Boston fine dining and drinking. From deftly coordinating bar reservations with their sister restaurant, Sportello, above, to an extremely qualified set of cocktail servers, the entire experience at Drink feels carefully calibrated, nimble and not at all pretentious. You would think that the bespoke cocktail trend would have run its course, but, under GM Ezra Star, somehow the thrill is still alive and well. At the risk of blowing up my own spot, I also have it on good authority that their low-key Japanese whisky collection is alone worth a trip (perhaps on someone else’s tab).

Japanese Wines | Bianca Prum, Managing Editor

I expected to drink my way around Japan in the form of whisky, gin, sake, highballs… but wine? Not on my radar until I spent an evening at Bunon, a natural wine bar-cum-izakaya where I encountered a domestic pét-nat whose only discernible details of origin were that it was “from the north.” Bone-dry and delicately floral, it was just what the tempura and fermented vegetables coming out of the kitchen demanded. Later, in the Yamanashi region, I asked for something local and was recommended another sparkler, this one from the oldest family-owned wine producer in the country and made from the traditional koshu grape. Again, it was dry and crisp, and the ideal companion to the heavier dishes of the meat-centric region. I flew home two days later still thinking of it—and lamenting that more of these tasty bottles aren’t available outside of Japan.

2015 Oriol Artigas La Rumbera | Megan Krigbaum, Contributing Editor

Perhaps it has something to do with recent political tumult in the region—or maybe the wines are just more attention-grabbing now—but there’s more and more chatter about wines from Catalonia these days. In particular, I am all about what’s coming out of Oriol Artigas’s little plot in Alella. This is what you want to drink in the winter: Its peach-blossomy fruit is fleshy and ripe, and its salinity is almost shocking, just in the way these cold snaps in the air have been.

Sphinx Cocktail at Karasu | Lizzie Munro, Senior Editor

There are a number of tempting drinks to be had at Karasu, the Japanese-style cocktail bar located behind Walter’s in Ft. Greene, Brooklyn—but, being a creature of habit, I zeroed in almost immediately on a strong and stirred gin number called the Sphinx, which is served chilled, in a rocks glass, with no ice. Essentially a reworked Gibson, it’s bolstered with umeshu, a liqueur made from still-green ume plums, rather than vodka, then brightened with akajiso vinegar, made from red shiso leaves. It’s both funkier and sweeter than the drink on which its based, but surprisingly delicate, too. Or at least it pretends to be standing in for the cocktail onion is a hefty umeboshi, a salty, pickled plum that makes just about every other Martini garnish feel lightweight by comparison.


What We’re Into Right Now

Each month, we pull together a selection of drinking-related items that have, for one reason or another, grabbed the attention of PUNCH’s editors, who spend pretty much all day, every day surrounded by booze. Here’s what we’re into right now.

Amaro Caldo at Fausto | Chloe Frechette, Assistant Editor

At the newly opened Fausto in Park Slope, Joe Campanale’s beverage program is as exciting and thoughtfully executed as chef Erin Shambura’s menu. Unsurprisingly for a spot that bills itself as a “Brooklyn restaurant with an Italian soul,” amaro steals the show as the protagonist of a tasteful list of aperitivi and digestivi (including vintage expressions) as well as an enticing cocktail list. While the Amarcord—a mix of two types of bitters, Italian pastis, tonic and prosecco—is one of the best spritzes in recent memory, it was the amaro caldo that won me over on a recent visit. An amaro-based toddy, it’s a sure antidote to February blues.

Jacquesson Cuvée 740 Extra Brut Champagne | Jon Bonné, Senior Contributing Editor

Sometimes you need a reminder that the old way of doing Champagne—buying grapes from various places as a négociant, blending them together to show their best side—can have a moment amid the post-modernism of 2018. Although that doesn’t quite describe what brothers Jean-Hervé and Laurent Chiquet of Jacquesson do (they own much of their own land, as do some of the best large Champagne houses today), their numbered cuvée is a forward take on the old ways in Champagne. Blended from several parcels on both sides of the Marne, a mix of all three major Champagne grapes, each cuvée represents a different base year—the 740 corresponds to the generally awesome 2012 vintage. This is the technique (versus the terroir) of Champagne at its finest: dark plum and black walnut in one moment, chalkiness and lift the next. The Chiquets keep proving you don’t have to be a lone farmer, and you don’t have to be a multinational—that there’s a third path to beauty in Champagne.

Drink, Boston | Allison Hamlin, Social Media Editor

It’s no secret that Barbara Lynch’s empire is an undisputed pillar of Boston fine dining and drinking. From deftly coordinating bar reservations with their sister restaurant, Sportello, above, to an extremely qualified set of cocktail servers, the entire experience at Drink feels carefully calibrated, nimble and not at all pretentious. You would think that the bespoke cocktail trend would have run its course, but, under GM Ezra Star, somehow the thrill is still alive and well. At the risk of blowing up my own spot, I also have it on good authority that their low-key Japanese whisky collection is alone worth a trip (perhaps on someone else’s tab).

Japanese Wines | Bianca Prum, Managing Editor

I expected to drink my way around Japan in the form of whisky, gin, sake, highballs… but wine? Not on my radar until I spent an evening at Bunon, a natural wine bar-cum-izakaya where I encountered a domestic pét-nat whose only discernible details of origin were that it was “from the north.” Bone-dry and delicately floral, it was just what the tempura and fermented vegetables coming out of the kitchen demanded. Later, in the Yamanashi region, I asked for something local and was recommended another sparkler, this one from the oldest family-owned wine producer in the country and made from the traditional koshu grape. Again, it was dry and crisp, and the ideal companion to the heavier dishes of the meat-centric region. I flew home two days later still thinking of it—and lamenting that more of these tasty bottles aren’t available outside of Japan.

2015 Oriol Artigas La Rumbera | Megan Krigbaum, Contributing Editor

Perhaps it has something to do with recent political tumult in the region—or maybe the wines are just more attention-grabbing now—but there’s more and more chatter about wines from Catalonia these days. In particular, I am all about what’s coming out of Oriol Artigas’s little plot in Alella. This is what you want to drink in the winter: Its peach-blossomy fruit is fleshy and ripe, and its salinity is almost shocking, just in the way these cold snaps in the air have been.

Sphinx Cocktail at Karasu | Lizzie Munro, Senior Editor

There are a number of tempting drinks to be had at Karasu, the Japanese-style cocktail bar located behind Walter’s in Ft. Greene, Brooklyn—but, being a creature of habit, I zeroed in almost immediately on a strong and stirred gin number called the Sphinx, which is served chilled, in a rocks glass, with no ice. Essentially a reworked Gibson, it’s bolstered with umeshu, a liqueur made from still-green ume plums, rather than vodka, then brightened with akajiso vinegar, made from red shiso leaves. It’s both funkier and sweeter than the drink on which its based, but surprisingly delicate, too. Or at least it pretends to be standing in for the cocktail onion is a hefty umeboshi, a salty, pickled plum that makes just about every other Martini garnish feel lightweight by comparison.


What We’re Into Right Now

Each month, we pull together a selection of drinking-related items that have, for one reason or another, grabbed the attention of PUNCH’s editors, who spend pretty much all day, every day surrounded by booze. Here’s what we’re into right now.

Amaro Caldo at Fausto | Chloe Frechette, Assistant Editor

At the newly opened Fausto in Park Slope, Joe Campanale’s beverage program is as exciting and thoughtfully executed as chef Erin Shambura’s menu. Unsurprisingly for a spot that bills itself as a “Brooklyn restaurant with an Italian soul,” amaro steals the show as the protagonist of a tasteful list of aperitivi and digestivi (including vintage expressions) as well as an enticing cocktail list. While the Amarcord—a mix of two types of bitters, Italian pastis, tonic and prosecco—is one of the best spritzes in recent memory, it was the amaro caldo that won me over on a recent visit. An amaro-based toddy, it’s a sure antidote to February blues.

Jacquesson Cuvée 740 Extra Brut Champagne | Jon Bonné, Senior Contributing Editor

Sometimes you need a reminder that the old way of doing Champagne—buying grapes from various places as a négociant, blending them together to show their best side—can have a moment amid the post-modernism of 2018. Although that doesn’t quite describe what brothers Jean-Hervé and Laurent Chiquet of Jacquesson do (they own much of their own land, as do some of the best large Champagne houses today), their numbered cuvée is a forward take on the old ways in Champagne. Blended from several parcels on both sides of the Marne, a mix of all three major Champagne grapes, each cuvée represents a different base year—the 740 corresponds to the generally awesome 2012 vintage. This is the technique (versus the terroir) of Champagne at its finest: dark plum and black walnut in one moment, chalkiness and lift the next. The Chiquets keep proving you don’t have to be a lone farmer, and you don’t have to be a multinational—that there’s a third path to beauty in Champagne.

Drink, Boston | Allison Hamlin, Social Media Editor

It’s no secret that Barbara Lynch’s empire is an undisputed pillar of Boston fine dining and drinking. From deftly coordinating bar reservations with their sister restaurant, Sportello, above, to an extremely qualified set of cocktail servers, the entire experience at Drink feels carefully calibrated, nimble and not at all pretentious. You would think that the bespoke cocktail trend would have run its course, but, under GM Ezra Star, somehow the thrill is still alive and well. At the risk of blowing up my own spot, I also have it on good authority that their low-key Japanese whisky collection is alone worth a trip (perhaps on someone else’s tab).

Japanese Wines | Bianca Prum, Managing Editor

I expected to drink my way around Japan in the form of whisky, gin, sake, highballs… but wine? Not on my radar until I spent an evening at Bunon, a natural wine bar-cum-izakaya where I encountered a domestic pét-nat whose only discernible details of origin were that it was “from the north.” Bone-dry and delicately floral, it was just what the tempura and fermented vegetables coming out of the kitchen demanded. Later, in the Yamanashi region, I asked for something local and was recommended another sparkler, this one from the oldest family-owned wine producer in the country and made from the traditional koshu grape. Again, it was dry and crisp, and the ideal companion to the heavier dishes of the meat-centric region. I flew home two days later still thinking of it—and lamenting that more of these tasty bottles aren’t available outside of Japan.

2015 Oriol Artigas La Rumbera | Megan Krigbaum, Contributing Editor

Perhaps it has something to do with recent political tumult in the region—or maybe the wines are just more attention-grabbing now—but there’s more and more chatter about wines from Catalonia these days. In particular, I am all about what’s coming out of Oriol Artigas’s little plot in Alella. This is what you want to drink in the winter: Its peach-blossomy fruit is fleshy and ripe, and its salinity is almost shocking, just in the way these cold snaps in the air have been.

Sphinx Cocktail at Karasu | Lizzie Munro, Senior Editor

There are a number of tempting drinks to be had at Karasu, the Japanese-style cocktail bar located behind Walter’s in Ft. Greene, Brooklyn—but, being a creature of habit, I zeroed in almost immediately on a strong and stirred gin number called the Sphinx, which is served chilled, in a rocks glass, with no ice. Essentially a reworked Gibson, it’s bolstered with umeshu, a liqueur made from still-green ume plums, rather than vodka, then brightened with akajiso vinegar, made from red shiso leaves. It’s both funkier and sweeter than the drink on which its based, but surprisingly delicate, too. Or at least it pretends to be standing in for the cocktail onion is a hefty umeboshi, a salty, pickled plum that makes just about every other Martini garnish feel lightweight by comparison.


What We’re Into Right Now

Each month, we pull together a selection of drinking-related items that have, for one reason or another, grabbed the attention of PUNCH’s editors, who spend pretty much all day, every day surrounded by booze. Here’s what we’re into right now.

Amaro Caldo at Fausto | Chloe Frechette, Assistant Editor

At the newly opened Fausto in Park Slope, Joe Campanale’s beverage program is as exciting and thoughtfully executed as chef Erin Shambura’s menu. Unsurprisingly for a spot that bills itself as a “Brooklyn restaurant with an Italian soul,” amaro steals the show as the protagonist of a tasteful list of aperitivi and digestivi (including vintage expressions) as well as an enticing cocktail list. While the Amarcord—a mix of two types of bitters, Italian pastis, tonic and prosecco—is one of the best spritzes in recent memory, it was the amaro caldo that won me over on a recent visit. An amaro-based toddy, it’s a sure antidote to February blues.

Jacquesson Cuvée 740 Extra Brut Champagne | Jon Bonné, Senior Contributing Editor

Sometimes you need a reminder that the old way of doing Champagne—buying grapes from various places as a négociant, blending them together to show their best side—can have a moment amid the post-modernism of 2018. Although that doesn’t quite describe what brothers Jean-Hervé and Laurent Chiquet of Jacquesson do (they own much of their own land, as do some of the best large Champagne houses today), their numbered cuvée is a forward take on the old ways in Champagne. Blended from several parcels on both sides of the Marne, a mix of all three major Champagne grapes, each cuvée represents a different base year—the 740 corresponds to the generally awesome 2012 vintage. This is the technique (versus the terroir) of Champagne at its finest: dark plum and black walnut in one moment, chalkiness and lift the next. The Chiquets keep proving you don’t have to be a lone farmer, and you don’t have to be a multinational—that there’s a third path to beauty in Champagne.

Drink, Boston | Allison Hamlin, Social Media Editor

It’s no secret that Barbara Lynch’s empire is an undisputed pillar of Boston fine dining and drinking. From deftly coordinating bar reservations with their sister restaurant, Sportello, above, to an extremely qualified set of cocktail servers, the entire experience at Drink feels carefully calibrated, nimble and not at all pretentious. You would think that the bespoke cocktail trend would have run its course, but, under GM Ezra Star, somehow the thrill is still alive and well. At the risk of blowing up my own spot, I also have it on good authority that their low-key Japanese whisky collection is alone worth a trip (perhaps on someone else’s tab).

Japanese Wines | Bianca Prum, Managing Editor

I expected to drink my way around Japan in the form of whisky, gin, sake, highballs… but wine? Not on my radar until I spent an evening at Bunon, a natural wine bar-cum-izakaya where I encountered a domestic pét-nat whose only discernible details of origin were that it was “from the north.” Bone-dry and delicately floral, it was just what the tempura and fermented vegetables coming out of the kitchen demanded. Later, in the Yamanashi region, I asked for something local and was recommended another sparkler, this one from the oldest family-owned wine producer in the country and made from the traditional koshu grape. Again, it was dry and crisp, and the ideal companion to the heavier dishes of the meat-centric region. I flew home two days later still thinking of it—and lamenting that more of these tasty bottles aren’t available outside of Japan.

2015 Oriol Artigas La Rumbera | Megan Krigbaum, Contributing Editor

Perhaps it has something to do with recent political tumult in the region—or maybe the wines are just more attention-grabbing now—but there’s more and more chatter about wines from Catalonia these days. In particular, I am all about what’s coming out of Oriol Artigas’s little plot in Alella. This is what you want to drink in the winter: Its peach-blossomy fruit is fleshy and ripe, and its salinity is almost shocking, just in the way these cold snaps in the air have been.

Sphinx Cocktail at Karasu | Lizzie Munro, Senior Editor

There are a number of tempting drinks to be had at Karasu, the Japanese-style cocktail bar located behind Walter’s in Ft. Greene, Brooklyn—but, being a creature of habit, I zeroed in almost immediately on a strong and stirred gin number called the Sphinx, which is served chilled, in a rocks glass, with no ice. Essentially a reworked Gibson, it’s bolstered with umeshu, a liqueur made from still-green ume plums, rather than vodka, then brightened with akajiso vinegar, made from red shiso leaves. It’s both funkier and sweeter than the drink on which its based, but surprisingly delicate, too. Or at least it pretends to be standing in for the cocktail onion is a hefty umeboshi, a salty, pickled plum that makes just about every other Martini garnish feel lightweight by comparison.


What We’re Into Right Now

Each month, we pull together a selection of drinking-related items that have, for one reason or another, grabbed the attention of PUNCH’s editors, who spend pretty much all day, every day surrounded by booze. Here’s what we’re into right now.

Amaro Caldo at Fausto | Chloe Frechette, Assistant Editor

At the newly opened Fausto in Park Slope, Joe Campanale’s beverage program is as exciting and thoughtfully executed as chef Erin Shambura’s menu. Unsurprisingly for a spot that bills itself as a “Brooklyn restaurant with an Italian soul,” amaro steals the show as the protagonist of a tasteful list of aperitivi and digestivi (including vintage expressions) as well as an enticing cocktail list. While the Amarcord—a mix of two types of bitters, Italian pastis, tonic and prosecco—is one of the best spritzes in recent memory, it was the amaro caldo that won me over on a recent visit. An amaro-based toddy, it’s a sure antidote to February blues.

Jacquesson Cuvée 740 Extra Brut Champagne | Jon Bonné, Senior Contributing Editor

Sometimes you need a reminder that the old way of doing Champagne—buying grapes from various places as a négociant, blending them together to show their best side—can have a moment amid the post-modernism of 2018. Although that doesn’t quite describe what brothers Jean-Hervé and Laurent Chiquet of Jacquesson do (they own much of their own land, as do some of the best large Champagne houses today), their numbered cuvée is a forward take on the old ways in Champagne. Blended from several parcels on both sides of the Marne, a mix of all three major Champagne grapes, each cuvée represents a different base year—the 740 corresponds to the generally awesome 2012 vintage. This is the technique (versus the terroir) of Champagne at its finest: dark plum and black walnut in one moment, chalkiness and lift the next. The Chiquets keep proving you don’t have to be a lone farmer, and you don’t have to be a multinational—that there’s a third path to beauty in Champagne.

Drink, Boston | Allison Hamlin, Social Media Editor

It’s no secret that Barbara Lynch’s empire is an undisputed pillar of Boston fine dining and drinking. From deftly coordinating bar reservations with their sister restaurant, Sportello, above, to an extremely qualified set of cocktail servers, the entire experience at Drink feels carefully calibrated, nimble and not at all pretentious. You would think that the bespoke cocktail trend would have run its course, but, under GM Ezra Star, somehow the thrill is still alive and well. At the risk of blowing up my own spot, I also have it on good authority that their low-key Japanese whisky collection is alone worth a trip (perhaps on someone else’s tab).

Japanese Wines | Bianca Prum, Managing Editor

I expected to drink my way around Japan in the form of whisky, gin, sake, highballs… but wine? Not on my radar until I spent an evening at Bunon, a natural wine bar-cum-izakaya where I encountered a domestic pét-nat whose only discernible details of origin were that it was “from the north.” Bone-dry and delicately floral, it was just what the tempura and fermented vegetables coming out of the kitchen demanded. Later, in the Yamanashi region, I asked for something local and was recommended another sparkler, this one from the oldest family-owned wine producer in the country and made from the traditional koshu grape. Again, it was dry and crisp, and the ideal companion to the heavier dishes of the meat-centric region. I flew home two days later still thinking of it—and lamenting that more of these tasty bottles aren’t available outside of Japan.

2015 Oriol Artigas La Rumbera | Megan Krigbaum, Contributing Editor

Perhaps it has something to do with recent political tumult in the region—or maybe the wines are just more attention-grabbing now—but there’s more and more chatter about wines from Catalonia these days. In particular, I am all about what’s coming out of Oriol Artigas’s little plot in Alella. This is what you want to drink in the winter: Its peach-blossomy fruit is fleshy and ripe, and its salinity is almost shocking, just in the way these cold snaps in the air have been.

Sphinx Cocktail at Karasu | Lizzie Munro, Senior Editor

There are a number of tempting drinks to be had at Karasu, the Japanese-style cocktail bar located behind Walter’s in Ft. Greene, Brooklyn—but, being a creature of habit, I zeroed in almost immediately on a strong and stirred gin number called the Sphinx, which is served chilled, in a rocks glass, with no ice. Essentially a reworked Gibson, it’s bolstered with umeshu, a liqueur made from still-green ume plums, rather than vodka, then brightened with akajiso vinegar, made from red shiso leaves. It’s both funkier and sweeter than the drink on which its based, but surprisingly delicate, too. Or at least it pretends to be standing in for the cocktail onion is a hefty umeboshi, a salty, pickled plum that makes just about every other Martini garnish feel lightweight by comparison.


What We’re Into Right Now

Each month, we pull together a selection of drinking-related items that have, for one reason or another, grabbed the attention of PUNCH’s editors, who spend pretty much all day, every day surrounded by booze. Here’s what we’re into right now.

Amaro Caldo at Fausto | Chloe Frechette, Assistant Editor

At the newly opened Fausto in Park Slope, Joe Campanale’s beverage program is as exciting and thoughtfully executed as chef Erin Shambura’s menu. Unsurprisingly for a spot that bills itself as a “Brooklyn restaurant with an Italian soul,” amaro steals the show as the protagonist of a tasteful list of aperitivi and digestivi (including vintage expressions) as well as an enticing cocktail list. While the Amarcord—a mix of two types of bitters, Italian pastis, tonic and prosecco—is one of the best spritzes in recent memory, it was the amaro caldo that won me over on a recent visit. An amaro-based toddy, it’s a sure antidote to February blues.

Jacquesson Cuvée 740 Extra Brut Champagne | Jon Bonné, Senior Contributing Editor

Sometimes you need a reminder that the old way of doing Champagne—buying grapes from various places as a négociant, blending them together to show their best side—can have a moment amid the post-modernism of 2018. Although that doesn’t quite describe what brothers Jean-Hervé and Laurent Chiquet of Jacquesson do (they own much of their own land, as do some of the best large Champagne houses today), their numbered cuvée is a forward take on the old ways in Champagne. Blended from several parcels on both sides of the Marne, a mix of all three major Champagne grapes, each cuvée represents a different base year—the 740 corresponds to the generally awesome 2012 vintage. This is the technique (versus the terroir) of Champagne at its finest: dark plum and black walnut in one moment, chalkiness and lift the next. The Chiquets keep proving you don’t have to be a lone farmer, and you don’t have to be a multinational—that there’s a third path to beauty in Champagne.

Drink, Boston | Allison Hamlin, Social Media Editor

It’s no secret that Barbara Lynch’s empire is an undisputed pillar of Boston fine dining and drinking. From deftly coordinating bar reservations with their sister restaurant, Sportello, above, to an extremely qualified set of cocktail servers, the entire experience at Drink feels carefully calibrated, nimble and not at all pretentious. You would think that the bespoke cocktail trend would have run its course, but, under GM Ezra Star, somehow the thrill is still alive and well. At the risk of blowing up my own spot, I also have it on good authority that their low-key Japanese whisky collection is alone worth a trip (perhaps on someone else’s tab).

Japanese Wines | Bianca Prum, Managing Editor

I expected to drink my way around Japan in the form of whisky, gin, sake, highballs… but wine? Not on my radar until I spent an evening at Bunon, a natural wine bar-cum-izakaya where I encountered a domestic pét-nat whose only discernible details of origin were that it was “from the north.” Bone-dry and delicately floral, it was just what the tempura and fermented vegetables coming out of the kitchen demanded. Later, in the Yamanashi region, I asked for something local and was recommended another sparkler, this one from the oldest family-owned wine producer in the country and made from the traditional koshu grape. Again, it was dry and crisp, and the ideal companion to the heavier dishes of the meat-centric region. I flew home two days later still thinking of it—and lamenting that more of these tasty bottles aren’t available outside of Japan.

2015 Oriol Artigas La Rumbera | Megan Krigbaum, Contributing Editor

Perhaps it has something to do with recent political tumult in the region—or maybe the wines are just more attention-grabbing now—but there’s more and more chatter about wines from Catalonia these days. In particular, I am all about what’s coming out of Oriol Artigas’s little plot in Alella. This is what you want to drink in the winter: Its peach-blossomy fruit is fleshy and ripe, and its salinity is almost shocking, just in the way these cold snaps in the air have been.

Sphinx Cocktail at Karasu | Lizzie Munro, Senior Editor

There are a number of tempting drinks to be had at Karasu, the Japanese-style cocktail bar located behind Walter’s in Ft. Greene, Brooklyn—but, being a creature of habit, I zeroed in almost immediately on a strong and stirred gin number called the Sphinx, which is served chilled, in a rocks glass, with no ice. Essentially a reworked Gibson, it’s bolstered with umeshu, a liqueur made from still-green ume plums, rather than vodka, then brightened with akajiso vinegar, made from red shiso leaves. It’s both funkier and sweeter than the drink on which its based, but surprisingly delicate, too. Or at least it pretends to be standing in for the cocktail onion is a hefty umeboshi, a salty, pickled plum that makes just about every other Martini garnish feel lightweight by comparison.


What We’re Into Right Now

Each month, we pull together a selection of drinking-related items that have, for one reason or another, grabbed the attention of PUNCH’s editors, who spend pretty much all day, every day surrounded by booze. Here’s what we’re into right now.

Amaro Caldo at Fausto | Chloe Frechette, Assistant Editor

At the newly opened Fausto in Park Slope, Joe Campanale’s beverage program is as exciting and thoughtfully executed as chef Erin Shambura’s menu. Unsurprisingly for a spot that bills itself as a “Brooklyn restaurant with an Italian soul,” amaro steals the show as the protagonist of a tasteful list of aperitivi and digestivi (including vintage expressions) as well as an enticing cocktail list. While the Amarcord—a mix of two types of bitters, Italian pastis, tonic and prosecco—is one of the best spritzes in recent memory, it was the amaro caldo that won me over on a recent visit. An amaro-based toddy, it’s a sure antidote to February blues.

Jacquesson Cuvée 740 Extra Brut Champagne | Jon Bonné, Senior Contributing Editor

Sometimes you need a reminder that the old way of doing Champagne—buying grapes from various places as a négociant, blending them together to show their best side—can have a moment amid the post-modernism of 2018. Although that doesn’t quite describe what brothers Jean-Hervé and Laurent Chiquet of Jacquesson do (they own much of their own land, as do some of the best large Champagne houses today), their numbered cuvée is a forward take on the old ways in Champagne. Blended from several parcels on both sides of the Marne, a mix of all three major Champagne grapes, each cuvée represents a different base year—the 740 corresponds to the generally awesome 2012 vintage. This is the technique (versus the terroir) of Champagne at its finest: dark plum and black walnut in one moment, chalkiness and lift the next. The Chiquets keep proving you don’t have to be a lone farmer, and you don’t have to be a multinational—that there’s a third path to beauty in Champagne.

Drink, Boston | Allison Hamlin, Social Media Editor

It’s no secret that Barbara Lynch’s empire is an undisputed pillar of Boston fine dining and drinking. From deftly coordinating bar reservations with their sister restaurant, Sportello, above, to an extremely qualified set of cocktail servers, the entire experience at Drink feels carefully calibrated, nimble and not at all pretentious. You would think that the bespoke cocktail trend would have run its course, but, under GM Ezra Star, somehow the thrill is still alive and well. At the risk of blowing up my own spot, I also have it on good authority that their low-key Japanese whisky collection is alone worth a trip (perhaps on someone else’s tab).

Japanese Wines | Bianca Prum, Managing Editor

I expected to drink my way around Japan in the form of whisky, gin, sake, highballs… but wine? Not on my radar until I spent an evening at Bunon, a natural wine bar-cum-izakaya where I encountered a domestic pét-nat whose only discernible details of origin were that it was “from the north.” Bone-dry and delicately floral, it was just what the tempura and fermented vegetables coming out of the kitchen demanded. Later, in the Yamanashi region, I asked for something local and was recommended another sparkler, this one from the oldest family-owned wine producer in the country and made from the traditional koshu grape. Again, it was dry and crisp, and the ideal companion to the heavier dishes of the meat-centric region. I flew home two days later still thinking of it—and lamenting that more of these tasty bottles aren’t available outside of Japan.

2015 Oriol Artigas La Rumbera | Megan Krigbaum, Contributing Editor

Perhaps it has something to do with recent political tumult in the region—or maybe the wines are just more attention-grabbing now—but there’s more and more chatter about wines from Catalonia these days. In particular, I am all about what’s coming out of Oriol Artigas’s little plot in Alella. This is what you want to drink in the winter: Its peach-blossomy fruit is fleshy and ripe, and its salinity is almost shocking, just in the way these cold snaps in the air have been.

Sphinx Cocktail at Karasu | Lizzie Munro, Senior Editor

There are a number of tempting drinks to be had at Karasu, the Japanese-style cocktail bar located behind Walter’s in Ft. Greene, Brooklyn—but, being a creature of habit, I zeroed in almost immediately on a strong and stirred gin number called the Sphinx, which is served chilled, in a rocks glass, with no ice. Essentially a reworked Gibson, it’s bolstered with umeshu, a liqueur made from still-green ume plums, rather than vodka, then brightened with akajiso vinegar, made from red shiso leaves. It’s both funkier and sweeter than the drink on which its based, but surprisingly delicate, too. Or at least it pretends to be standing in for the cocktail onion is a hefty umeboshi, a salty, pickled plum that makes just about every other Martini garnish feel lightweight by comparison.


What We’re Into Right Now

Each month, we pull together a selection of drinking-related items that have, for one reason or another, grabbed the attention of PUNCH’s editors, who spend pretty much all day, every day surrounded by booze. Here’s what we’re into right now.

Amaro Caldo at Fausto | Chloe Frechette, Assistant Editor

At the newly opened Fausto in Park Slope, Joe Campanale’s beverage program is as exciting and thoughtfully executed as chef Erin Shambura’s menu. Unsurprisingly for a spot that bills itself as a “Brooklyn restaurant with an Italian soul,” amaro steals the show as the protagonist of a tasteful list of aperitivi and digestivi (including vintage expressions) as well as an enticing cocktail list. While the Amarcord—a mix of two types of bitters, Italian pastis, tonic and prosecco—is one of the best spritzes in recent memory, it was the amaro caldo that won me over on a recent visit. An amaro-based toddy, it’s a sure antidote to February blues.

Jacquesson Cuvée 740 Extra Brut Champagne | Jon Bonné, Senior Contributing Editor

Sometimes you need a reminder that the old way of doing Champagne—buying grapes from various places as a négociant, blending them together to show their best side—can have a moment amid the post-modernism of 2018. Although that doesn’t quite describe what brothers Jean-Hervé and Laurent Chiquet of Jacquesson do (they own much of their own land, as do some of the best large Champagne houses today), their numbered cuvée is a forward take on the old ways in Champagne. Blended from several parcels on both sides of the Marne, a mix of all three major Champagne grapes, each cuvée represents a different base year—the 740 corresponds to the generally awesome 2012 vintage. This is the technique (versus the terroir) of Champagne at its finest: dark plum and black walnut in one moment, chalkiness and lift the next. The Chiquets keep proving you don’t have to be a lone farmer, and you don’t have to be a multinational—that there’s a third path to beauty in Champagne.

Drink, Boston | Allison Hamlin, Social Media Editor

It’s no secret that Barbara Lynch’s empire is an undisputed pillar of Boston fine dining and drinking. From deftly coordinating bar reservations with their sister restaurant, Sportello, above, to an extremely qualified set of cocktail servers, the entire experience at Drink feels carefully calibrated, nimble and not at all pretentious. You would think that the bespoke cocktail trend would have run its course, but, under GM Ezra Star, somehow the thrill is still alive and well. At the risk of blowing up my own spot, I also have it on good authority that their low-key Japanese whisky collection is alone worth a trip (perhaps on someone else’s tab).

Japanese Wines | Bianca Prum, Managing Editor

I expected to drink my way around Japan in the form of whisky, gin, sake, highballs… but wine? Not on my radar until I spent an evening at Bunon, a natural wine bar-cum-izakaya where I encountered a domestic pét-nat whose only discernible details of origin were that it was “from the north.” Bone-dry and delicately floral, it was just what the tempura and fermented vegetables coming out of the kitchen demanded. Later, in the Yamanashi region, I asked for something local and was recommended another sparkler, this one from the oldest family-owned wine producer in the country and made from the traditional koshu grape. Again, it was dry and crisp, and the ideal companion to the heavier dishes of the meat-centric region. I flew home two days later still thinking of it—and lamenting that more of these tasty bottles aren’t available outside of Japan.

2015 Oriol Artigas La Rumbera | Megan Krigbaum, Contributing Editor

Perhaps it has something to do with recent political tumult in the region—or maybe the wines are just more attention-grabbing now—but there’s more and more chatter about wines from Catalonia these days. In particular, I am all about what’s coming out of Oriol Artigas’s little plot in Alella. This is what you want to drink in the winter: Its peach-blossomy fruit is fleshy and ripe, and its salinity is almost shocking, just in the way these cold snaps in the air have been.

Sphinx Cocktail at Karasu | Lizzie Munro, Senior Editor

There are a number of tempting drinks to be had at Karasu, the Japanese-style cocktail bar located behind Walter’s in Ft. Greene, Brooklyn—but, being a creature of habit, I zeroed in almost immediately on a strong and stirred gin number called the Sphinx, which is served chilled, in a rocks glass, with no ice. Essentially a reworked Gibson, it’s bolstered with umeshu, a liqueur made from still-green ume plums, rather than vodka, then brightened with akajiso vinegar, made from red shiso leaves. It’s both funkier and sweeter than the drink on which its based, but surprisingly delicate, too. Or at least it pretends to be standing in for the cocktail onion is a hefty umeboshi, a salty, pickled plum that makes just about every other Martini garnish feel lightweight by comparison.


Watch the video: Joe Campanale on Martha (May 2022).